Saturday, April 24, 2010

Artichokes Stuffed with Quinoa


On Artichokes
The artichoke is one of the central objects of my existence. It’s my favorite food and has been for as long as I can remember and to me that means quite a bit. In a way I practically worship it the way ancient cultures worshiped wheat. I seek it out on every menu. I’ve spent my life experimenting with every possible way to cook it. I even considered getting an Artichoke tattoo on my belly.

Being fixated with cooking and in love with the artichoke makes for some interesting, and sometimes frustrating, experiences. It’s not like being in love with the beet or the potato (both of which I’m very fond of). The artichoke proves quite a challenge every time you try a new technique of cooking it. After all there’s just as many ways to make it inedible as there are to make it edible.

On Quinoa
I am not a hippie nor a vegetarian. In fact I eat meat at pretty much every meal. I didn’t want to like quinoa. When someone tells me that there’s a grain out there that you can eat pretty much on it’s own for a meal and get everything you need my response is “Why the hell would you want to do that?”. After all variety is the spice of life and definitely the spice of the culinary world (actually I suppose spice is the spice of the culinary world but that just sort of drives my point home).

But the fact is, despite my reluctance, I do like quinoa. In fact I like it quite a bit. I like it’s chewy texture and slightly tangy taste. I like that a basic Quinoa salad can be eaten just as well either hot or cold and yes, despite myself, I like that this basic salad, eaten on it’s own for lunch, will leave me totally sated.

Stuffed Artichokes
If I was somehow in the position to have a signature dish the stuffed artichoke would be it. I’ve made it over a hundred times with probably just as many variations.

My father and step-mother were big foodies before the term foodie existed. I began teaching myself to cook shortly after I moved out in order to replicate all the amazing things I’d eat with them. One of the first of these things was the stuffed artichokes I used to get at Il Fornaio in Corte Madera.

Originally I based my recipes off the ones from that restaurant. The stuffing from these was based around the use of high quality bread chunks placed in just the cavity of the artichoke as opposed to the traditional roman way with bread crumbs between all the leaves. Recently however I’ve developed an allergy to wheat and can no longer eat the bread part. This put a major crimp in my style.

I’ve tried wild rice and glutton free bread to varying degrees of success. I figured, with my new conversion to Quinoa, maybe a marriage could be made.

The Results
In the end. The marriage was successful if not harmonious. It was a decent meal for two, both components came out nice on there own, but in the end it wasn’t quite what it could have been. When using bread somehow the juices from the stuffing manage to seep a little into the artichoke leaving the meat of the heart with a pleasant garlicky, herbal flavor. For some reason this never works with any of the substitutes I’ve tried. Perhaps rice and quinoa somehow keep more of the flavor to themselves. Who knows.



I’ve included the recipe for the bread stuffing as well as the quinoa one:

2 Medium to Large Artichokes (preferably organic they’re much better)

1 cup quinoa any color (I prefer red!)
½ onion sliced
3 gloves garlic minced
1 medium carrot sliced
1 cup sliced crimini mushrooms
2 sprigs thyme
2 ribs celery sliced
½ pepper chopped
1 tomato chopped
¼ cup olive oil
½ cup some sort of wine vinager (I like champagne vinager but any type will do)
About 8 oz. blue chees

Prepping the Artichokes
Cut off the top 1/3 of the artichokes and the stem so it’s pretty much flush with the base of the vegetable. It’s good to err on the side of cutting less of the stem off than more as you don’t want them to come apart when you stuff them later.

Boil or steam the artichokes for about 25 minutes in a large stock pot or dutch oven. The simple rule to seeing if an artichoke is done is to use tongs and pull on the lowest leaves if they come off without any resistance there done. For this recipe it’s better to have them a little underdone since they cook more later when you put them in the oven.

Stuffing

1. Rinse quinoa thoroughly using either a very fine strainer or a courser one lined with a paper towel or coffee filter.

2. In a medium size dutch heat 1 Tbsp. olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add onions and cook stirring often until onions just begin to brown. Add garlic and saute until just fragrant, about 30 seconds. Mix in quinoa then two cups water. Bring to a boil then lower the heat to a simmer. Cook until all the water is gone or at least until the quinoa tastes done. About 15 to 20 minutes.

3. While quinoa is cooking saute mushrooms in a large pan with ½ Tbs. olive oil until just starting to turn brown. Add another ½ Tbs. oil to pan along with green garlic and carrots. Saute until the green garlic just starts to get brown stripes on it, about 2 minutes. Stir in leaves from one sprig of thyme. When quinoa is done add this mixture to it.

4. Mix together in a small bowl the olive oil vinegar and remaining thyme. Stir into the quinoa.

5. Mix into the quinoa mixture the peppers, celery, tomatoes and cheese. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Putting the Artichokes Together

1. Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.

2. Once the artichokes are done cooking drain them in a colander and put them under cold running water. When there cool enough to handle use our hands or a spoon to remover the spikey purple leaves and the choke. I prefer to use my hands to pull out the inner leaves then push out the choke with my thumb. A lot of people prefer to use a spoon which works well also just be careful not to scoop up too much of the heart with the choke.

3. Stuff the cavity of the artichoke fairly full. Be careful not to break the them open. Set aside any extra stuffing.

4. Arrange the artichokes in a medium size baking sheet. Place a small sliver of the remaining cheese on top of each one. Sprinkle extra stuffing around the bottom of the pan using it to help keep the artichokes upright.

5. Place them in the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. The cheese should melt and form a crust.

Serve with dipping sauce, mayonnaise or a simple vinaigrette if desired

Bread Stuffing
4 cloves of garlic coarsely chopped
Kernals from 1 ear of fresh corn
¼ Bulb of fresh Fennel, ¼ Red Onion or ¼ Leeks
1 Green Onion Chopped
1 Cups French or Italian bread cut into 2 inch Squares
1 Medium tomatoe chopped
Blue Cheese or parmesan
¼ cup Olive Oil
½ cup Red Wine Viniger

Making the Stuffing
1. While the artichokes are cooking heat butter until foaming subsides then add half the garlic, the fennel (or red onion or leek). Sauté ingredients together shaking pan a few times until a few pieces of corn start to get dark spots on them. Remove from heat and set aside.

2. In a large mixing bowl mix together bread cubes, tomatoes, remaining garlic, 1/3 of the cheese, green onions, corn mixture oil and vinegar. Salt and pepper it to taste.

Friday, April 16, 2010

The Pho' Report Part One- The Friendliness vs. Quality theory


The Pho’ Report: In which I set out to review every Pho restaurant in the bay area (well really San Francisco and the East Bay)

Part One- The Friendliness vs. Quality theory

Pho’ Hoa - This small fast food looking place semi-chain in downtown berkeley was where I first fell in love with Pho’. I’d always liked Asian noodle soups but never really understood all the hubbub over this particular one until one rainy afternoon last year when I ducked in here after buying comic books.

I can’t really explain what happened. It was cold out so I figured soup would be good. This was the nearest place so I figured “what the hell”? I ordered the basic Pho’ Tai (vermicelli noodle soup with rare beef) and sat back with my comics. Sometime mid-meal a switch flipped in my brain. Afterwords I found myself craving Pho’ for nearly every meal.

So now a year later as I set out to write a bit about all the Pho’ I’ve eaten I figure this is the perfect place to start.

The Pho’ here could be describes as average but I tend to think of it like this:

Pho is a food for which there is only so much you can do. It has a sort of glass ceiling but one too many places either can’t manage to reach or try too hard to break through. There is an ideal thing that you want when you order Pho. The noodles must be cooked just right, the beef must be sliced right and rare (or raw), the garnishes should be fresh and most importantly the broth should be simple but still extremely deep in flavor. Get all this right and you’ve satisfied most Pho eaters. This one for sure.

Too many places try and do too much with their Pho. This is not one of those places. Pho Hao manages to give you exactly what you crave when you order Pho’. Their simple noodle soup has sublime perfection to it. There’s something so great about getting exactly what you want when you want it.

On another note the people who work here range from completely uninterested in you too downright hostile. This is a central part of my “friendliness vs. quality” theory that I’ll talk about more in the next review.

7 - Mission - The people working at this tiny little Vietnamese place (on 7th at Mission of course) are beyond nice. Not only where they extremely pleasant with me they were patient above and beyond the pale of duty with, not just one but, all three crazy people who wandered in while I was eating.

Unfortunately their attitude did nothing for the Pho’ which is what I’m primarily interested in. The noodles where overdone and chewy which was bad enough but beyond that there was something seriously wrong with the broth. It took me a few minutes to put a finger on what was so familiar about the rather bad soup. Finally I realized it had the distinct taste of Top Ramen flavor packets. Could this really be how they made it???

My experience here combined with all my former experiences at Pho’ Hoa was what led me eventually to the following theory about Pho’ restaurants:

“Quality of the Pho’ gets worse in direct proportion to how nice the people are serving it”.
















Top Ramen Packets????

Friday, April 9, 2010

(Vegetarian) Borsht!


I’ve decided to make a renewed effort to post to this blog every week. I’ll try to alternate between home cooking experiments and restaurant reviews.

Today’s home cooking experiment: Vegetarian Borsht.

I’m not sure how it came to mind but sometime Monday afternoon I was seized with the urge to eat Borsht and, since I’m yet to find a decent russian restaurant (or any at all really) in the east bay, I figured this was the perfect chance to try and make my own. Since I was cooking for Kirstin the borsht had to be vegetarian, which worried me a little. I was afraid the broth would be too one dimensional.

Before heading out to berkeley bowl I looked up a recipe online to see what it needed. I found what looked like a good recipe on cooksrecipes.com and set to and to my pleasant surprise I seemed to have most of the ingredients already in my fridge.

The recipe was fairly simple. Sauté onions,beets, carrot and parsnip with butter and oil in a large dutch over medium heat. When onions are softened add potatoes, garlic, canned tomatoes and broth. Simmer for twenty minutes. Stir in a little vinegar. Serve with chopped dill and sour cream.

Could it really be that simple? I was slightly wary. Weren't there some secret russian grandma tricks? In the end no there weren't. The only real problem I ran into was that I misjudged the quantity to such a degree that I had to switch everything over to a bigger pot before I could move on to the second step.

In the end me came out with a perfectly good giant pot of borscht that, thanks to the vinegar didn’t really suffer too much due to lack of meat. We’ve been eating it all week and I’m happy to say that it wasn’t until today (friday) that I got tired of eating it.

I’m not going to include my recipe for this since I pretty much followed this online one to the letter (vegetarian russian borscht). Maybe next time I’ll experiment a little with making a half batch and adding some other ingredients. Maybe kidney beans like they have at Odessa.